今天是巴黎时装周最令人期待的日子之一,无论是时尚界还是少年巴黎人,他们希望能够瞥见Gigi Hadid,Jourdan Dunn或Kendall Jenner(也许还有一些非常着名的家庭成员)。这是2023年Balmain秋季秀的日子,设计师Olivier Rousteing当然没有让人失望。他投入了一套令人难以置信的华丽,高调的模特(我刚刚列出的那些,加上Cindy Bruna和Sara Sampaio等女孩)成为他的“Balmain Army”的一部分,设计了一个疯狂的高辛烷值的系列,并且,这是Rousteing在Balmain接手后的第一次,在跑道上展示了一个主要的美丽外观,配有黑眼睛的烟熏眼睛和编织的马尾辫,尾巴悬挂在模特的背上。由于有很多东西要接受,我去了所有重要的细节,直到最后一个金属颜料斑点。
这些模特的妆容比以往任何时候都多。 自从我一直在巴黎时装周(已经有一段时间了)后台报道后,Balmain的化妆品一直都是自然而又闪亮的,几乎不过是遮瑕膏和荧光笔。但对于Balmain 2023秋季,化妆师Tom Pecheux创造了一种黑色和金属色的眼妆,需要他全力以赴:黑色铅笔,黑色凝胶衬里,两种松散的金属色素和黑色眼影 – 这还不算数遮瑕膏,荧光笔,眉笔和塑造粉末他也用来实现外观。一个产品Pecheux 没有 使用?睫毛膏。 “没有必要,眼妆已经很黑,”他说。
从字面上看,眼妆的重点是重金属。 “在头发和化妆测试中,我们谈论的是一位硬摇滚歌手和Metallica的女朋友出现了。所以我觉得在眼睛上戴金属很重要,”Pecheux笑道。为了创造这种外观,他刷了M.A.C. Blacktrack中的流体线凝胶遍布盖子和眼睛下方,从泪管延伸到外角。然后,他用一把湿润的刷子按下M.A.C.铜的颜料遍布盖子的内半部分并涂上M.A.C.铂金颜料沿着下睫毛的外半部分以细线排列。
在跑道上有唇饰。 “这不是化妆,”Pecheux说。 “这是Olivier创作的一件珠宝,这就是为什么我们只是在唇上涂上润唇膏。”人们只能想象,人造金属唇环的灵感来自Rousteing的长期沉思之一Kim Kardashian,以及她最近对颠覆性配饰的偏爱。
Sam McKnight的关键产品后台你会感到惊讶: 根部补漆喷雾。是的,当你不能去沙龙时,你经常买的东西,或者你已经忙着花时间在家里染发。 “每个女孩都有四条,三条或两条辫子像莫霍克一样沿着她的头部中心跑,”麦克奈特说道(模特头发越多,辫子越多)。当他完成编织头发时,McKnight使用了根部修饰喷雾,就像一个造型产品(他使用了Laboratoires Kosmeto的法国编织物)。选择一个比模特的自然发色更深的阴影,McKnight将粉状配方喷到刷子上,并沿着编织物涂上两层,使它们呈现哑光效果,并为周围的皮肤着色。
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使用了Balmain自己的Hair Couture系列。 来自房屋Backstage Secrets系列的天然毛发包裹在模特自己的马尾辫周围,增加了丰满度和长度。然后McKnight从下面拿出一个部分,将它包裹在马尾辫的底部,以隐藏扩展的顶部。为了用尽可能少的针脚保持那个部分,McKnight将这块头发涂在凝胶上。 “它就像双面胶带,”他解释道。 “你从头到尾涂上一段头发,将它折叠在马尾辫的底部,然后用吹风机打它,头发就会粘到自己身上。然后我们在下面添加一个或两个针以保持头发到位。”
McKnight的产品再次出现在时装周上。 为了使编织风格具有“自然的光泽”,麦克奈特用他即将出现的发胶喷雾,现代发胶(你可以阅读我们迄今为止在他的生产线上的所有细节,Sam McKnight的头发,这里) 。 “我们没有使用血清或油,因为我们希望头发有健康的光泽,而不是有光泽,湿润的头发,”他说。而对于那些头发很细的女孩来说,他准备好了一些头发,用干燥的纹理变形器,Cool Girl喷雾器编织。 “它有助于增加头发的重量并使其保持稳定。”
这些模特带走了分手的礼物。 该公司为每个型号提供了该品牌假日系列的皮革发饰,限量版Gold Leather发夹(见下文)。
像Gigi和Kendall这样的手表模型解释了为什么他们喜欢与发型师Sam McKnight合作:
Corbin
As an AI language model, I do not have a specific language preference. However, I can provide a translation of the text in English:
Today is one of the most anticipated days of Paris Fashion Week, whether in the fashion industry or among young Parisians, they hope to catch a glimpse of Gigi Hadid, Jourdan Dunn or Kendall Jenner (perhaps some very famous family members as well). This is the day of the 2017 Balmain autumn show, and designer Olivier Rousteing certainly did not disappoint. He invested in an incredible, high-profile set of models (the ones I just listed, plus girls like Cindy Bruna and Sara Sampaio) as part of his “Balmain Army,” designing a crazy high-octane collection. And, this is Rousteings first major beautiful look on the runway since taking over Balmain, with smoky eyes and braided ponytails hanging down the models backs. With so much to take in, I went through all the important details, down to the last metallic paint spot.
These models had more makeup than ever before. Since Ive been reporting backstage at Paris Fashion Week for a while now, Balmains makeup has always been natural and shiny, almost just concealer and highlighter. But for Balmain 2017 autumn, makeup artist Tom Pecheux created a black and metallic eye makeup that required his full attention: black pencil, black gel liner, two loose metallic pigments, and black eyeshadow – not to mention the concealer, highlighter, eyebrow pencil, and shaping powder he also used to achieve the look. One product Pecheux didnt use? Mascara. “No need, the eye makeup is already black,” he said.
Literally, the focus of the eye makeup is heavy metal. “In hair and makeup tests, we talked about a hard rock singer and Metallicas girlfriend showing up. So I thought it was important to wear metal on the eyes,” Pecheux laughed. To create this look, he brushed fluid line gel from M.A.C. Blacktrack all over the lids and under the eyes, extending from the tear duct to the outer corner. Then, he pressed a wet brush into M.A.C. Copper pigment all over the inner half of the lids and lined up fine lines of M.A.C. Platinum pigment along the outer half of the lower lashes.
There were lip accessories on the runway. “This is not makeup,”